Sharon and Barry Go!

I started to think about things we lose along the way after a man who stayed in the same albergue with me last night caught up with me on the trail this morning and asked a question:

Until about a week before I left for Spain, I was under the impression that Camino Primitivo meant the Primitive Camino. I was wrong. It means the Original Camino.

Rest days are important on the Camino — especially for older peregrinos. They give your body a chance to recharge. And they give you a chance to play tourist.

When you walk a Camino, some hospitaleros — albergue hosts — stand out and are long remembered. Sometimes they are volunteers at albergues owned by a religious organization or municipality. Often the ones who stand out are owners of private albergues who are driven by a mission to ease the way for pilgrims.

A few days ago, I wrote in a Facebook comment that I am carrying two small stones that I will leave at special places in Spain to spread the light of my beautiful, joyful granddaughter who died violently a few weeks after she turned 3.

“I know where one will go,” I wrote. “I’m waiting for the other spot to announce itself to me.”

It announced itself today in Castroverde, Galicia, Spain — but I almost missed it.

Every pilgrim makes mistakes on the Camino. Let me tell you about two from today.

Today’s walk was long, and I’m taking time tonight to do some planning. Tomorrow’s walk will be shorter and easier, so I should have time to write. For now, I leave you with my favorite photo from today and today’s route video.

Today I crossed from the province of Asturias into Galicia, Spain’s northwestern-most province and the home of Santiago de Compostela, the terminus of this journey.

Today was bright and clear. As I started my walk from Berducedo to Grandas de Salime, there were clouds above me and more clouds in the valley below. It was glorious and affirming. And I realized: This sense of serenity, contemplation, discovery and self-reliance is why we walk the Camino.

When you set out on the Hospitales route, you know you won’t see a place to eat, drink or take shelter for the entire 15.5 miles. But people do it for the incredible views. Somebody told me they could see the ocean from the heights of the Hospitales. So what did I see from the top?